New to projector sewing?

A projector displays your digital sewing pattern on a flat cutting surface. Once you have calibrated it, the projected lines should match the intended physical dimensions of the PDF. You can trace those lines onto paper or mark your fabric and cut.

The projector supplies the image; the Pattern Projector tool helps you position and calibrate it. Your pattern instructions still tell you which size, fabric, seam allowances and construction steps to use.

From my computer to my cutting table

I am a pattern maker, and I spent around 15 years drafting on paper before moving my drafting onto the computer. I now use Illustrator for most of my pattern drafting. I can develop a pattern on my laptop, then take it into the studio and project it onto my working surface.

For me, that means less printing, less joining of A4 sheets and less paper to store. Projector sewing can help reduce the paper used for patterns, while giving you the choice to trace a paper copy whenever that suits your project. You do not have to draft digitally yourself: you can also open a compatible PDF pattern from Tolumi or another designer.

What you will need

• A suitable projector, its power supply and a secure, compatible mount or stand.
• A computer, or a compatible phone or tablet, with a way to send its screen to the projector.
• A flat, stable cutting surface, a reliable ruler or tape measure, and preferably a gridded cutting mat.
• Your pattern PDF, some paper for your first practice, and your usual marking and cutting tools.

Start by measuring your table and the available distance between the projector and your cutting surface. A projector that works beautifully in one sewing room may not fit another.

“Throw” describes the relationship between projection distance and image width. Use the manufacturer’s calculator or installation chart for the exact model. For UST models, also check the stated measurement reference point and image offset.

Why the distance-to-surface ratio matters

A projector’s throw ratio describes the relationship between its projection distance and the width of its image. It helps you work out how large the image can be in your sewing space.

Projection distance ÷ image width = throw ratio. Use the same units for both measurements. For example, to produce a 100 cm-wide image, a ratio of 0.5:1 would need about 50 cm of projection distance; a ratio of 1.5:1 would need about 150 cm. The same calculation works in inches.

Measure the distance from the projector’s specified reference point to the surface you will actually use, rather than measuring the room or ceiling height alone. Check both image width and height. Use the exact model’s installation chart or calculator, especially for an ultra-short-throw projector, where the image offset and measurement reference point are important.

Calibration cannot make an unsuitable projector cover a larger area than its optics allow. If the usable image is too small at your available distance, choose a different projector or working arrangement. Check focus across the whole area as well as image size.

Does getting started have to be expensive?

It depends on the projector and the equipment your space needs. A suitable used or refurbished Epson can be worth comparing with a new compact model. Look at the total cost, including the mount or stand, video adapter, cable and any replacement lamp. Prices and second-hand availability change, so check current listings rather than relying on a fixed price.

What to look out for

• Image coverage: check the projected width and height in centimetres or inches. An advertised screen size is often the diagonal, not the usable width.
• Sharp lines: look for clear focus across the whole working area, including the edges. Check native resolution, not only a claim such as “supports 4K”. A supported input signal is not the same as the projector’s displayed detail.
• Brightness: compare stated ANSI or ISO lumen measurements. An unexplained “lux” or “lumens” figure is difficult to compare. Your room lighting, fabric colour and image size all affect visibility.
• Connections: check the projector input, your device’s video output, and the cable or adapter required.
• Stable positioning: confirm that your chosen mount fits the exact model and that its manual permits your intended projection orientation.
• Practical ownership: check fan noise, ventilation space, returns and, for used lamp projectors, lamp hours and replacement-lamp availability.

A laser or LED light source does not tell you whether a projector is short throw. An interactive projector is not required: the app’s pen tool works through your device controls.

Projectors to research for your own space

There is no single projector that suits every sewing room. My suggestions to research include Magcubic HY310 and HY310X, alongside suitable Epson models. Compare the image size at your available projection distance, room lighting, connection options and permitted mounting position before choosing.

For Magcubic: I recommend buying through the brand’s original website. Check the exact model, specifications, plug type, delivery arrangements and returns before ordering. Explore the official Magcubic range →

For Epson: it can be worth looking for second-hand or refurbished deals on eBay. Compare the exact model rather than the brand name alone. Ask about lamp hours where applicable, image clarity, included remote and mounting parts, seller feedback and returns. A low purchase price may need an allowance for a new lamp, adapter or mount.

My overhead setup

In one of my studio setups, my Magcubic projector sits overhead and projects down onto the cutting table. Positioning it further from the table gives the image room to spread out. The distance, available height and exact projector model all need to work together.

My close-range Epson setup

My Epson EB-695Wi is an ultra-short-throw model. In this layout it projects onto the working area from nearby, rather than from above the centre of the table. That is one reason an ultra-short-throw projector can be useful where an overhead setup does not suit the space.

Want thicker pattern lines? In the projector workspace, open Appearance, then choose a stronger setting under Pattern line thickness. This can help the lines stand out on patterned fabric or with the room lights on. It does not enlarge the pattern; check your test square before cutting.

These are examples from my own workspace. Follow the installation, support and ventilation instructions for your exact projector, and allow for its footprint when planning your cutting area.

1. Make the equipment secure. Follow the projector and mount instructions. Keep vents clear and cables away from your cutting area. Ceiling or wall installation may need a qualified installer.
2. Connect your device. A computer may use HDMI or a suitable video adapter. Phones and tablets need compatible video output or screen mirroring; a USB-C socket alone does not guarantee HDMI output. Check your exact model before buying an adapter.
3. Display the tool on the projector. With an extended computer desktop, move the browser window onto the projector display. With mirroring, check that the complete workspace is visible.
4. Choose your working display mode. Decide on full screen, orientation and display settings before calibration. On a phone, keep the same orientation while you work.
5. Prepare a flat surface. Smooth the paper or fabric and reduce direct light falling on the projection. Adjust the projector’s focus and position until lines are clear across the usable area.

Your own arrangement might use a suitable ceiling mount, a stable projector stand, an overhead frame or a manufacturer-approved tabletop mount. Choose support rated for the projector’s weight and compatible with its fixing points and permitted operating position. Check the resulting image coverage before you commit to a location.

Do I need a cutting mat?

A gridded cutting mat is recommended, but you can calibrate without one. Choose a mat size that suits your working surface and the pattern area you will trace or cut. It does not need to be a particular brand or a single large size; check that the part you are working on fits your usable area.

If you do not have a gridded mat, you can make a paper calibration guide:

1. Lay paper flat on your working surface and secure it so it cannot move. Join sheets flat if you need a larger area.
2. Using a reliable ruler and a set square, draw a rectangle with square corners and clearly label its measured width and height. You can add accurately spaced 1 cm or 1 inch grid lines inside it if helpful.
3. Enter that rectangle’s actual dimensions in the tool, align the four projected corners with it, then check measurements across, down and at several points inside. Never judge the scale by appearance alone.

A printed calibration grid can also help, but print it at actual size and measure it with a ruler before trusting it. Your hand-drawn or printed guide must be accurate enough to check your projected pattern.

There is often a practical way to begin with the equipment you have. Start with a clearly measured area, check your scale carefully and build your setup around your own workspace.

Do I need a cutting table?

You can project onto a table, a cutting board or mat laid on the floor, or another suitable firm, flat surface. Choose a comfortable working position and a setup in which the projector can be securely positioned as its manufacturer permits. For cutting on the floor, use a suitable cutting mat and keep the fabric smooth and still.

You can also project onto securely fixed paper on a flat wall for tracing if your equipment and workspace suit that arrangement. Calibrate on the actual surface you will use. Moving from a table to the floor, or to another surface or height, changes the setup and requires a fresh calibration check.

For older projectors: a compatible HDMI connection is often a practical route if both your device and projector support it. Check the ports first; some devices need a video-capable adapter. Bluetooth is not a substitute for a video connection, and a Wi-Fi feature does not automatically mean that every phone can mirror to the projector.

Wireless mirroring can work with compatible equipment. A wired connection is a useful starting point where supported, because it removes wireless connection issues from your first setup.

Never look directly into the projector beam. Follow your model’s installation and operating instructions.

Calibration means matching the projected image to real measurements on your table. A pattern can look right and still be the wrong size, so this is the part to take slowly.

1. Open Calibrate. Select centimetres or inches.
2. Choose a measured rectangle that fits inside your projected working area. Enter its actual width and height. Use a reliable ruler to check your mat markings if you are unsure.
3. Choose grid colours and line thickness that you can see clearly.
4. Move corners 1, 2, 3 and 4 onto the corresponding corners of the measured rectangle: top left, top right, bottom right and bottom left.
5. Check the grid throughout the rectangle, not only at the corners. Each small full square should measure 1 cm × 1 cm or 1 inch × 1 inch, according to your selected units. A partial cell at an edge may be smaller.
6. Measure across, down and at several places near the edges. If the middle matches but the edges do not, check the surface, projector alignment and focus before continuing.
7. Confirm that the grid matches your table and save the calibration using the option available in your version of the tool.

Recheck calibration after moving the projector or table, changing working height, orientation, resolution, display scaling, browser zoom, full-screen mode, or projector zoom/keystone settings. Recalibrate if the measurements no longer match. For your first practice, leave automatic image adjustments off where your projector allows, so the image does not change unexpectedly.

Saved settings belong to the browser or app on that device. They are not automatically shared between a phone, laptop, different browser or installed app. Private browsing or clearing stored data may remove a save.

1. Choose your PDF. Use a projector PDF where supplied. A full-size A0 or copy-shop PDF may also be suitable. Separate A4 print tiles are not automatically a joined full-size pattern.
2. Choose the page and size. If the PDF contains supported layers, show the size you need while keeping essential labels and markings visible. A file without layers cannot offer separate size layers.
3. Make the lines comfortable to read. Change colours or line thickness. Use the text-reading control where helpful. Thicker lines improve visibility; they do not replace checking the pattern scale.
4. Position the pattern. Rotate or mirror only when the cutting instructions call for it. Keep the grainline parallel to the fabric’s selvedge unless the pattern specifies another direction.
5. Check the cutting instructions. Confirm whether seam allowances are included, which line is the cutting line, how many pieces to cut, and whether the piece is cut on the fold or as a mirrored pair.
6. Measure again. Check the test square in both directions, then lock the pattern position when ready.
7. Trace onto paper first. Include notches, darts, grainlines and other construction marks. Check the result before moving on to fabric.

The pen tool lets you add your own reference lines on screen. Those marks do not change the original PDF. Keep physical reference marks if you need to return to a position.

Tracing a paper pattern is still an option

You can use projection to make a paper copy before cutting fabric, test a new setup, or keep a pattern you want to alter. Here I am tracing a projected pattern onto paper with a pencil and pattern ruler. Keep the paper flat and still, and measure the pattern’s test square before tracing.

What if a piece is bigger than the projected area?

Do not shrink it to fit: that changes the pattern size. For your first attempts, choose a smaller piece or trace onto paper in sections, using clearly marked overlapping reference points to align each section. Check the joins before using the paper pattern. Avoid moving fabric and the projected pattern at the same time while you are learning.

• Projector, table and fabric are secure and still.
• Test square measures correctly across and down.
• Grid also matches at more than one place.
• Correct pattern, page and size are selected.
• Grainline, fold line and fabric direction are correct.
• Seam allowance and cutting line are understood.
• Piece quantity, mirrored pairs and markings are checked.
• Pattern position is locked and the lines are clearly visible.

Can I only use Tolumi patterns?

You can use other designers’ compatible PDF patterns too. Follow the original designer’s instructions and licence. If a file does not open or render correctly, use another suitable file or ask the designer for help.

Can I use my phone or tablet?

Yes, with a supported device and a compatible projector connection. Screen output varies by model. Check the device manufacturer’s guidance; do not assume that every phone, tablet or USB-C adapter will work.

Do I need an interactive projector?

No. You can use the tool through your computer, phone or tablet. An interactive projector’s physical pen is separate equipment and may need its own software and setup.

Do my patterns come to Tolumi?

Your PDFs are processed on your device by the Pattern Projector tool. I do not receive or keep a copy of the pattern you open.

Can I trace onto paper instead of cutting fabric?

Absolutely. It is a lovely way to practise, keep a paper copy, or make alterations before cutting fabric.

Where can I ask for help?

Email contact@tolumiabiola.com. Include your device, projector model, whether you use the website or Android app, and what happens at the step where you get stuck.